Plavac Mali: The Esteemed Red Grape Variety of Croatia
Plavac Mali (“plah-vahtz mah-lee”) is an indigenous red grape variety of Dalmatia, Croatia. It translates to ‘little blue’ (Plavac means ‘blue’ and Mali means ‘little’), referring to its appearance, small dark purple-blue hued colored grapes. A cross between Crljenak Kaštelanski (ancestral Zinfandel) and Dobričić grapes (ancient red grape from the island of Šolta, near Split). Plavac Mali shares DNA with California’s Zinfandel, producing an array of wine styles ranging from smooth to bold and anything in between.
As per the famed Mike Grgich of Grgich Hills Estate in Napa Valley, California: “No one in California knew where Zinfandel came from when I moved there in 1958. Looking at the grapes, it really reminded me of Plavac Mali from Croatia.” In 2001, Grgich encouraged researchers from UC Davis and the University of Zagreb, to investigate this intriguing coincidence. After four years of research and DNA sampling, Zinfandel was found to be native to Dalmatia and known as Crljenak Kaštelanski, named after the town Kaštel Novi near Split. In 2004, the variety was confirmed to be the “original Zinfandel.”
Davor Šestanović, winemaker at Zlatan Otok (Photo courtesy of Zlatan Otok).
Plavac Mali thrives on limestone soil and Mediterranean climate. Davor Šestanović, winemaker at Zlatan Otok (Island of Hvar), confirmed that “limestone soils retain water and contribute to proper nutrients (calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate) making the soil less acidic and more alkaline, producing sweeter and better-quality grapes.” It results in wine showing freshness and minerality that is pleasing to the palate. After all, some of the best wines in the world come from limestone soils. Think of Chablis, Champagne, Burgundy, even Saint-Emilion in Bordeaux. Not too shabby!
Below are some of my favorite Plavac Mali bottles, from easy drinking to complex, and bold, I am sure you will find your match:
Zlatan Otok 2015 Plavac Hvar: Established in 1986 by Zlatan Plenkovic, Zlatan Otok winery is a jewel of the beautiful island of Hvar. Known as a destination for the rich and famous, it is the sunniest island of Croatia (over 2,800 hours of sun per year). Zlatan Otok produces award-winning wines from white and red indigenous varieties. The vines grow on steep slopes and the vineyard work needs to be done by hand. The 2015 Plavac Hvar was first aged in wooden barrels for 4 months and then five years in the bottle resulting in notes of fresh rosemary, black olives, earthiness, soft tannins, and a lingering finish. The 2015 Plavac Hvar pairs perfectly with tuna steak (Suggested Retail Price: $29.99).
Vina Skaramuca Plavac Mali 2018 Pelješac: Vina Skaramuča Winery is located in the Pelješac peninsula of Croatia, along the southern Dalmatian coast, a region known for its Plavac Mali. Vina Skaramuča Winery owns the largest vineyard in the Dingač appellation of the peninsula, producing bold Plavac Mali. No oak aging here. This Plavac Mali is young, bright, and easy drinking. It opens to notes of plum, cherry, and chocolate covered raisins, followed by snappy acidity and chewy tannins. Perfect for a casual dinner of burgers or pizza (Suggested Retail Price: $15).
Terra Madre 2016 Plavac Mali Premium Komarna: Vina Terra Madre winery is located in Komarna (Southern Dalmatia), the youngest wine appellation of Croatia. Vina Terra Madre started planting Plavac Mali and Pošip vines in 2008. Since their very first harvest in 2010, Vina Terra Madre has received countless awards and accolades for its stunning wines. This Plavac Mali is plush with notes of cherry, plum, baking spice, rosemary, and vanilla on the backbone. Aged in old oak barrels for 14 months, it has depth without overshadowing the fruit. Pairs well with hard cheeses and charcuterie (Suggested Retail Price: $38).
Volarević 2015 Plavac Mali Syrtis Komarna: A team of four brothers and their proud father, the Volarević family started making wine in 2005. Prior to that, Volarević was a sought-after plant nursery. They are familiar with the local soil and climate, and consequently decided to work with what grows best in the area: Plavac Mali and Pošip. Aging in new and old French and American oak barrels for 18 months creates a more complex style of Plavac Mali. It is recommended you open it an hour prior to consumption. The first whiff is full of licorice, plum, blueberries, with a slow reveal of black olives and earthy mushroom characters with cedar and vanilla components. Sip it as you indulge in a grilled steak with mushroom sauce, your taste buds will thank you (Suggested Retail Price: $33).
To find my wine suggestions locally, go to Wine-Searcher.com. Terra Madre and Volarević are available online at Croatian Premium Wine.com and ship to most U.S. States.
Živjeli!
Anna
Thumbnail photo: Courtesy of Zlatan Otok.